why the uptick?

is it France or is it the Daube de Boeuf?

Do make a reservation here if you find yourself in Paris

Bonjour-Bonjour,

I have experienced something strange. While in France for the last seven months I’ve been eating far more meat than I do at home. Yes, I have a healthy amount of vegetables and fruits and grains as well. But honestly, I’ve been eating red meat probably 2-3 times a week while at home I eat red meat perhaps 1-2 times a month. I must report, I feel better. I have more energy. My hair isn’t falling out. I am not snacking because I’m not hungry between meals… at all.

Honestly, I hate to admit this because we all know meat=bad— for the planet, for the cruel treatment of animals, bad for our heart health— but damn. Is there something about animal protein that is different than plant protein? Is it the B vitamins one gets from animal protein? Or, is it France? I could eat tofu at every meal and be dragging. Please scientist/nutritionist reading this, tell me why.

My nouvelle amie, Sacha Cohen, who is day by day more versed in French life as she begins anew here in Paris, (do read her substack, A Good Vintage, to feed your fantasy of moving to France, she shares it all, the tough and the delightful…) says it’s a dirty secret no one admits because we all want to eat less animal protein.

I’m at a loss, but I feel great!

…

Meanwhile, for your special occasion meat dinner, or when you’re home pining for France… might I suggest Daube de Boeuf.

trust me, this Daube de Boeuf was delicious. And, if you find yourself in Paris, make a reservation at Bistrot des Tournelles, magnifique!

Daube de Boeuf á la Provencal

• 4T extra-virgin olive oil

• 2T brandy, eau-de-vie or Cognac

• 6lbs boneless stewing beef, such as round, shin, blade or chuck, cut into 3-ounce chunks

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 2 lg onions, thinly sliced

• 4 carrots, peeled and thickly sliced

• 4 oz mushrooms, trimmed and thickly sliced

• 1 head garlic, cloves separated, smashed and peeled

• Grated zest of 1 orange, more for garnish (optional)

• 2 lg ripe tomatoes, chopped, or 1 cup canned tomato purée

• 2 bottles white wine

• 1 bouquet garni - 1 small bunch fresh parsley, 6 to 8 sprigs fresh thyme and 2 bay leaves, tied together with string or bundled in cheesecloth

• ½ c tiny picholine green olives,

• ½ - 1t whole black peppercorns

• ¼ c freshly chopped parsley, for garnish

1. In a large bowl combine 2 tablespoons olive oil, the Cognac, the beef and a generous sprinkling of salt and pepper. Cover and set aside to marinate at room temperature for 2 hours.

2. Place a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 325 degrees.

3. In a wide, heavy casserole with a tight-fitting lid, heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add onions, carrots, mushrooms, garlic, orange zest and 2 big pinches salt; stir well to coat and heat through. Reduce heat to low, cover, and sweat (cook without browning) for 8 to 10 minutes, until onions and garlic are softened.

4. Add beef and its marinade, tomatoes, wine, bouquet garni and peppercorns. Stir to combine.

5. Cover and bake in the center of the oven until meat is radically tender, 3 to 4 hours. There is no need to stir or baste, but check from time to time to make sure the liquid is at a very gentle simmer; boiling will make the meat tough.

6. When the stew is ready, adjust the seasonings with salt and pepper, add the olives, they will heat in the stew. Either serve right away, or refrigerate overnight or longer, skim any hardened fat from the top, then reheat before serving.

7. The stew is lovely served alongside a buttered pasta, a creamy polenta, or mashed potatoes. You could serve with mashed sweet potatoes and pass some chili pepper flakes alongside. Also, serve with a healthy portion of fresh spinach sautéed with a splash of olive oil. For complete decadence, serve alongside potatoes Gratin Dauphinois Madame Cartet, which is fantastic and in constant rotation chez moi. Honestly, you could skip the boeuf and simply make this to serve with a nice green salad and a vinaigrette. Don’t have the recipe? Here you go:

Gratin Dauphinois Madame Cartet

60.7KB ∙ PDF file

Download

Download

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merci,