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hey-ho,
I might have had the best meal of my life in Malmö, Sweden. We had a late reservation at Lyran, where we sat at the chef’s counter. From here forward, I pledge to always sit at the chef’s counter. It was a delight to watch the young chefs at the stove, calm, moving in concert, smiling. (Huh, the chaos of The Bear may be a bit of theater?) All the ingredients were organic and sourced as close as possible. There was no menu, you simply declared yourself vegetarian, pescatarian, or omnivore and then were served a seven course meal of small and exquisite dishes, with plenty of time between each to savor and relax. The most memorable… golden beets, perfectly cooked, sliced very thin and layered over a dollop of housemade yogurt and pistachios. Atop the gorgeous beets, very thin slices of Sicilian clementine, peel and all, like panes of stained glass. It was the perfect combination of sweet, bitter, creamy, crunchy, and tart. If you ever find yourself in Malmö, be certain to secure a reservation well in advance.
But that’s not what I wanted to tell you.
We were surrounded at the counter by two friendly Swedish couples, each enjoying the wine pairings, and once they’d had enough social lubrication, well, they pounced! What is going on in your country with this election? (We fielded this question all over Europe.) You must be worried! How could this be? And of course we admitted great embarrassment about the state of affairs, as well as skyrocketing worry and anxiety.
After shaking their heads in wonder, clapping us on the back, promising to watch the election results with their fingers and toes crossed, we all raised glasses of fortified wine, and held a moment of silence. This is the kind of third space we need! We felt seen, supported, part of a community.
And then…
The final meal of our trip we found ourselves seated next to a table of FedEx pilots. They were a delight to chat with… did you know that along with coffee makers and Gap jeans, FedEx transports whales and pandas? The pilots hailed from South Carolina, Texas, and Florida. All of them were ex-military. Do you see where this is going? Beneath the table I frantically texted my husband:
Are they voting for Trump? Should we try to change their minds?
Dear Reader, we did not. Honestly, it felt too risky. Emotions run hot in this political moment because the stakes are so high. (My husband has been booted from a bar in St. Louis for trying to change someone’s mind! The bartender leaned over and told him he’d better get out, quick…) We didn’t want to create conflict in a tiny French bistro. How would we begin? Reproductive rights… Health care… Dignity… Foreign Affairs… Climate… Any choice but VP Harris is disastrous. (Looking at you, Jill Stein.)
These pilots were engaging. When else do you get to hear about a FedEx waiting room in which some dude in a wetsuit takes a seat beside you, ready to transport a dolphin? This election polarizes us. I wish there was a reasonable person opposing VP Harris. I wish I hadn’t been embarrassed with the Swedes, and chicken with the Americans. I cannot wait until this is over. (Do you and all your people have a plan to vote?)
Random epilogue: The next morning at our gate, we bumped into one of the FedEx pilots. No, he wasn’t in a wetsuit, but he did have a necklace of hickies. Apparently he found a little love on his last night in France!
Putting EAT up top today because, well, I’m hungry! It’s the beginning of sweater weather here in Portland and I’m craving warm, luxurious meals, and warm luxurious sweaters too!
eat:
Believe it or not, this is the menu from the elementary school in Collioure, France, where I was lucky to be vacationing and teaching in September. (I’ll be teaching there with wonderful and smart and funny
next September as well. Do join me!)On Monday:
tuna salad with organic coquillettes (shell pasta)
cauliflower gratin
a soft cheese
local apricots
Tuesday:
a French melon, similar to but better than cantaloupe
beef Ravioli
organic yogurt
organic apple and pear puree
And, well, you see the other days listed. Each day includes a three course meal, at which the children sit around the table and discuss where the food comes from… use cloth napkins and cutlery, and clear their places. Nary a McNugget to be seen! The pleasures of the table are part of the day. Enough said.
Here’s a lunch menu for us all to enjoy on a long Sunday afternoon:
Radishes w/soft butter & salt
Baguette
Broccoli and Cheddar Soup (recipe below)
Salad of mixed greens, Fuyu persimmon, pistachios, parsley leaves w/a gorgeous French/America vinaigrette from a guest post w/
Pumpkin cake w/brown butter frosting (recipe below)
Broccoli and Cheddar Soup
4T unsalted butter
2 med shallots, chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
1/4c all-purpose flour, because my guy is striving to be GF I use this
1c whole milk
3c chicken broth (preferably homemade, if not, low sodium) +1c water
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1-1/4 lbs broccoli (roughly 4c florets and stems, chopped small)
1 large carrot or 2 slim ones, chopped tiny
2 1/2c coarsely grated sharp cheddar cheese, use the best you can, I love this Irish cheddar
Melt the butter in a large, heavy pot over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic and cook until tender, about 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the flour and cook until golden, 3 to 4 minutes, then gradually whisk in the milk until smooth. Add the chicken broth, salt and pepper and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, about 10 minutes.
Add broccoli and carrot to the pot, simmer for about 15 to 20 minutes. Adjust seasoning, but be careful with the salt as the cheese will add a bit. Puree the soup to your desired texture — I like mine fairly smooth — with an immersion blender or in an upright one. Return the soup to the stove, add cheese and whisk until melted, about 1 minute.
If you happen to have rye croutons around and you are not GF, what a delicious addition!
Pumpkin Cake w/Brown Butter Frosting
You can tell from the state of these pages how much I love this cake!
Thanks for being here with me. If you love the newsletter as much as I do, and if you enjoy the recipes, I’ve got an index to share with you… all the recipes of the past two years, organized, w/links! Need a new Brussels sprouts recipe for Thanksgiving? How about: Honey-Roasted Brussels Sprouts With Harissa and Lemon Relish? Or, Middle Eastern Nachos for a cozy, easy Netflix night? Up your subscription to paid, and I’ll send the index your way.
It’s a mere 1.25 a week, far less than a cup of coffee, and for that you get all the goods, plus my affection!
THROUGH 1 NOVEMBER, I WILL MATCH ALL SUBSCRIPTIONS WITH A DONATION TO ACT BLUE, ready to help down ballot candidates!
So, hit the red button!
Today the read section is behind a paywall. Each week I’ll rotate the paywall so free subscribers can get a little taste of all the things! In read today, I discuss a beautiful book of stories, and an enlivened conversation with the writer Tobias Wolff. Don’t miss:
“Our identity is created by the people around us, the things that happen to us, but also the story we tell about ourselves to ourselves…”
write/prompt:
I have a couple last minute openings for the One Day Writing Retreat in my home in Portland. If a day of writing and being pampered sounds like your jam, LMK!
In preparing for my upcoming 5 weeks/4 essays class, I’ve read Dinty Moore’s book, CRAFTING THE PERSONAL ESSAY. It’s a soup-to-nuts manual with solid tips for exploring the flexility and power of your voice, and for discovering how to uplift your experiences and ideas, taking them from the private to the universal.
The most important thing to keep in mind is that an essay is an attempt, an effort to come to an understanding. As we pursue a thread of interest, we marry our sensibilities to the thing we want to understand better, seeking connections and new meaning.
Please know: You are boundlessly interesting! It isn’t what has happened that compels the reader, it is what you make of what has happened to you. Be strong in your opinions, no feeble claims! Life is too short! We are too old! Don’t hide behind niceties as you seek understanding and the truth. And, finally, hold yourself up to the same rigorous honesty to which you hold others.
An essay can grow from… 7 suggestions: